What Camera?

...is a question I get asked that a lot. When we’re traveling, on a tour, or even just on a walk at our local regional park, I’m almost never without a camera. I guess that makes me an easy target for someone in search of a clue to the puzzle. My first response is always, “What kind of pictures do you want to take?” This is generally followed by a quizzical look and a “Huh?” Let me explain.

The kind of camera you buy very much depends on what you intend to use it for. If you only take snapshots at your children’s birthday parties and other family events, it doesn’t make sense to buy a $1,500 DSLR body and a bag full of lenses. If you want to get into photographing extreme sports, a 6 MP, 3x zoom pocket camera will never fail to disappoint. “Use the right tool”, my father used to say as I was struggling to remove a screw with a pair of pliers. He was smart that way.

I have also found that most of the people asking the question have heard all of the buzzwords and seen all of the ad copy related to digital photography, but often are a bit hazy on what it all means. So, read on and I’ll try to lay out some basic guidelines for what type of camera works best for what type of photography and just what the heck all those numbers mean.

What kind? Which brand? Which model?

There are so many models available today from so many major brands that listing them and categorizing them all would take months and hundreds of pages. By then, most of the models listed and categorized would be obsolete and replaced by new ones. That’s the way the market is set up. With the exception of the high-end systems with interchangeable lenses and accessories, the average camera sold is a one-time sale. The camera maker won’t get any more of your money until you buy a newer, better model or maybe a battery or two. That’s why you see models turned out two or three times a year. I’m leading off with this bit of info because many people are afraid to buy a camera (or electronic items in general) for fear that it will be obsolete soon afterwards. There’s a two-part answer to that;

a) It will be obsolete very soon after you buy it.

b) Buy the one you want and don’t worry about it.

Buy the camera that will do what you want it to and get your money’s worth out of it by using it. It’s only obsolete when it won’t do what you want it to do anymore.

Some Basics

Before going through the camera types, let’s cover a few of the basic terms used when describing features and functions.

Resolution:

The scope of this chapter is directed at the non-professional looking for some basic information to help them decide which camera to buy and travel with. For that reason, I’m omitting Pro-oriented DSLRs, ultra-high resolution medium-format cameras and other bits of esoteric imaging hardware that can set you back $10k to $30k very quickly. That still leaves a huge crop of excellent cameras with resolutions ranging from 6 to over 24 megapixels (let’s use MP from now on, ok?) Too many choices!

Ask yourself, what are you going to do with the pictures? If you plan to store and view them on a computer, 10MP is overkill and will only take up extra space (5-6MB per photo vs. ¼ -½ MB for a 2 MP file). Will you print them? 4 x 6 prints are cheap and are the most popular size. If you plan on elaborate albums with enlargements, go for a higher resolution. A 2 MP camera will produce very acceptable 4 x 6 prints if it has a good lens. A 5 MP camera will make very nice 8 x10s and a 10MP will produce more than acceptable16 x 20 prints.

A bigger pixel count isn’t always better! A 6MP digital SLR will outperform a 10MP compact camera. In many cases an 8MP compact with a great lens will outperform another model boasting much higher resolution. There are a lot of technical reasons behind this and since this is not a technical article, just take it as a given. Factors like lens quality, physical sensor size and internal processing make a big difference in the performance of the camera, and the price. (My article Viva la Resolution may provide some more insight into resolution and how to decide what will work for you.)

Lens:

Without a way to focus light on the sensor (or film) a camera is…well, it’s not much of anything. The lens, therefore, is an important thing to consider when choosing a camera. Compact cameras most often have a 3X zoom range from about 35mm to105mm equivalent and for most purposes, that does quite well. Some of the newer models have 4X and greater zooms and others actually have two lenses and two sensors to increase the range without sacrificing image quality. SuperZoom cameras have 10X – 20X zooms for even more reach. Digicams usually have slightly smaller zoom ranges than the SuperZooms, but offer much more refined optics and options like manual zooming and focusing. Digital SLRs (DSLRs) are really not much different from their film ancestors. They feature interchangeable lenses, so zoom ranges aren’t as important to consider as on a camera with a fixed lens.

A word about the Xs in the zoom ratings and what “35mm to 100mm equivalent“ refers to. The Xs refer to the ratio between the shortest focal length of the zoom and the longest; 105/35 = 3. That’s a 3X zoom. The 35mm, 105mm, etc. numbers refer to the magnification of the lens with reference to a common film camera that uses 35mm film. Without going into too much detail, it uses the standard 50mm lens as an approximate equivalent to what the human eye sees. If a lens is shorter than 50mm equivalent, the camera will capture an image wider your eyes see – as if you had backed away from the subject. If it is longer, it will capture a narrower image – as if you had moved closer.

You’ll notice that I didn’t mention the other zoom that shows up in the ads, namely “digital” zoom. You will see “12X total zoom! (3X optical, 4X digital)” What this means it that the camera can magnify the image reaching the sensor 3 times using the lens and another 4 times by “cropping”. Say you have a 10MP camera and you use the 12X “total” zoom to take a picture of your kid playing soccer. When you get the 8 x 10 of the game-winning block, it’s fuzzy, grainy, and looks like crap. Why? The way a camera crops for digital zoom is to take the central fourth (4x is our example) of the image and reprocess it to fill the whole frame. What you get is a 2.5MP picture blown up to 5MP. “No such thing as a free lunch” applies here too. It’s just like zooming in on a picture on your computer. The more you zoom, the worse it looks. I’m not saying that you should never use digital zoom, just be aware of how it works and what to expect. Personally, I always use the menu to turn off the digital portion of the zoom and, if I need to crop later, I do it on the computer. That’s my choice, you make your own.

The LCD

I can’t think of a digital camera that doesn’t have an LCD screen on the back to view the images taken. I’m sure one has been made and even more sure that nobody bought it! That’s the coolest thing about digital! You take a picture and you can see immediately how it came out. The range of sizes of LCD screens keeps growing with every generation of new models. A dim, grainy 1.5in. screen was all that was available in the dinosaur days of digital. Now you can find screens over 3 in. on the backs (nearly the whole back!) of some pretty tiny cameras.

Check the LCD out in the sunshine before you make up your mind. There are all types of screens with a wide range of both brightness and resolution. If you are looking at a SuperZoom or Digicam, pay attention to the viewfinder. They aren’t optical, but contain a tiny LCD screen that replaces the prism and mirror of an SLR. They too vary a lot in resolution and viewability. Pan around the store and focus on various objects. Make sure you like what you see.

Memory

Yikes! Internal memory, Buffer memory, CompactFlash (CF), Secure Digital (SD), Memory Stick (MS),) and xD-Picture Card (xD) are the types you’ll see most often. Be aware of, but disregard a couple of older formats called SmartMedia (SM) and MultiMediaCard (MMC) since they have all but disappeared.

Let’s begin with buffer and internal memory. Both are sometimes referred to as internal memory in ad-speak, but they are not necessarily the same. Some compact cameras come with internal memory in addition to the buffer. This memory works like a built-in memory card to store images until a card is inserted (oops!). Some models have 16MB, 32MB or even more internal memory. If you are a truly occasional photographer, you may never need a removable card if you never fill the camera's memory before transferring the pictures.

Buffer memory comes in varying sizes too. Larger amounts of buffer memory will allow several pictures to be taken quickly (called “continuous” or “burst” mode) before the camera has to pause to write to the card or internal memory. This may be important if you have kids or like to photograph sports. How long it takes the processor to feed the image to the buffer so another image can be captured is another factor. This is called shot-to-shot speed or framing rate. This can vary from about 1 full-size picture every 2 seconds to 5 pictures every second (10 per second for some pro models) If you want to do action shots of the kid playing soccer, a fast framing rate is a must. If you plan on doing landscapes or still-life shots of flowers, one shot every minute would be enough.

Memory cards:

These are your “film”. Some cameras come with a card in the box, but they usually have such a tiny capacity that they’re virtually useless. The card types mentioned above range in capacity from 4 megabytes (MB) to 32 gigsbytes (GB) and above (for CF). Most stores will only carry 1GB to 8GB because of demand, but deals are readily available online.

Memory looks like an expensive part of your system, but look at it this way; A 6MP camera set at the highest quality and resolution (which your camera should always be set at !) will produce about a 2.5MB file. That would give you 900 – 1000 pictures on a $20 2GB card. An 8MP camera will produce a 3.5MB – 4.5MB file enabling you to store 250 – 300 pictures on the same card.

Your mileage may vary based (again) on a lot of technical factors, but using average file size for a 6MP compact, a $20 memory card will hold the equivalent of sixteen 24 exposure rolls of film. At $2.50 per roll plus, say, $7.00 to develop and print, you have $152 sunk into the same number of conventional photos.

If that already sounds like a deal, just download the photos to your computer and reuse the card…try that with film! If you look at it that way, digital cameras pay for themselves very quickly if you were used to taking a lot of photos. (Use that selling point at your own risk, my wife somehow doesn’t, or won’t, see it as clearly as I do!)

Memory speed:

Bombarded with still more Xs…40X, 80X, 133X, even 300X! An “X” in this case refers to multiples of the playback speed standardized for the CD-ROM which is 150 kilobits per second. That means that a 40X card can be read at a maximum of 60 megabits per second. Note the “bits”. Files are measured in 8-bit bytes so a 40X card can, theoretically, transfer about two 3mb files in a second. Again, mileage varies. Also keep in mind that a camera may not be able to write at such high speeds due to limitations of the processor and more techie factors. If the difference in price is fairly small, get the fast one. Remember, though, the 80X card may not always provide better performance than the 40X card in your camera. Note: The Xs aren't completely useless if your camera can't use them. If you have a fast card reader, you can really see the difference in the faster card while downloading images to your computer!

Batteries:

Cameras use power. This has been true since someone decided to put the exposure meter inside the camera. That took a teensy amount of power and a $3 battery would last for years. Digital cameras use a lot of power. You are holding a tiny digital device with the computing power of a 1960s mainframe! Several models can use AA batteries, but most use proprietary lithium-ion power packs. These usually cost from $30 - $60 each, but can be recharged hundreds of times and can last for 3-4 years with normal usage. You will need at least one extra battery if you plan on using the camera much. Trust me! If you think that nothing could be worse than that once-in-a-lifetime shot getting away because you left the camera at home, try missing it because a dead battery has transformed your camera into an expensive paperweight.

Rule-of-thumb; stick with buying the camera maker’s battery unless the camera model is popular enough that you can buy a major-brand replacement. If the camera uses AAs, get rechargables and a charger. The initial outlay is more, but modern NIMH (Nickel Metal Hydride) batteries hold a lot more charge than alkalines and can be charged 500-1000 times.

Lithium-ion batteries will self-discharge between charges if not used, but do so very slowly and will hold a charge for several months to a year. NIMH rechargables will self-discharge in about a month. Keep in mind that the batteries left in your camera bag may need to be charged before an outing. Some of the better AA chargers will charge the batteries quickly and then switch to a light “trickle” charge. That lets you leave a set in the charger so they are always ready to go. The newer hybrid NIMHs like the Sanyo Eneloop batteries are coming into their own now and are designed to perform like a NIMH and will hold a charge like the lithium batteries. Always something new...and it's generally good news for camera owners!

Camera Types

Compact Cameras:

Compact Point & Shoot cameras are the Instamatics of the digital age. They’re mostly affordable, take good photos and are easy to carry around. The current crop ranges from a $78 Kodak to an $850 Leica. (I’m sure there’s a cheaper Sri Lankan knock-off or a leather-bound Man Ray commemorative edition outside that range, so hold off on the e-mails.) These cameras are made to take the guesswork out of taking pictures. They provide the average user the ability to take good pictures under a remarkably wide range of conditions without doing much more than pointing the camera and shooting the picture….hence the name.

Some of the higher-end models are really remarkable and can produce photos that would be welcome in any gallery. A lot of people and many “pros” carry a compact camera with them at all times. You never know when a photo-op will present itself and whatever the camera used, the picture you took is better than the one you didn’t. These cameras are best for everyday use, family gatherings and casual travel photography. They can produce very good results for a relatively small investment in both money and in learning to use them. Great for a first digital (or any type) camera.

What to look for:

Resolution	8MP to 14MP covers almost all the available models. For most purposes, 8-10MP will do just fine and save you some $s over a higher resolution model with the same features.
Lens	A 35mm – 105mm equivalent zoom is very common. Longer zooms and very wide zooms are becoming more popularand are great for indoor group shots or real estate photos.
Flash	Most won’t cover past about 10 ft. This is a fact of life with compacts. Some larger models have mounts for accessory flashes and there are aftermarket flashes available that will use the camera’s flash as a trigger and can increase that range considerably. Be aware of this if flash is important to you
LCD	The little screen on the back has replaced the optical viewfinder on most newer model compacts. Check to see if it is visible in the sunlight as it is your only means of aiming and framing. Sizes range from 1.5 in. to 3 in. +. The large screen is great for passing pictures around the group.
Movie mode	640 x 480 and even HD at 30 fps video is not uncommon in some newer models. That resolution looks great on a TV or computer and can be copied to DVD just like a digital camcorder. Caveat: It gobbles memory. Figure on 1gb for every 15 minutes, or less, of video. Some cameras limit you to how long you can shoot a continuous scene. Parents with new babies may want one with a such a limit…just for the sake of others!
Waterproof (Huh?)	Yes, some models are submersible from 4 – 30+ ft. without accessory housings and can withstand being dropped 5 ft without damage. Even if you don’t snorkel, you may like this feature for dusty or rainy conditions.
Memory	Many compacts use SD memory. MemoryStick is used by Sony and a few others. xD is used by Fuji and Olympus. Compact flash used to be found in some compacts, but has all but disappeared in favor of the smaller formats. Do you have other devices that use any of these? Keep that in mind when choosing.
Stabilization	Most of the newer models offer optical stabilization and a few offer digital. Some offer "anti-blur" technology that raises the ISO to shorten the exposure, but this can have a negative impact on image quality, so be aware.
Battery	If it uses AAs, get rechargables and a charger. If it is proprietary, buy an extra or two.
Tripod socket	Believe it or not, some compacts don’t have one! With a puny flash, you need a tripod for long exposures of a dimly lit garden or nighttime skylines

SuperZooms:

SuperZoom is a class of camera meant to be the best of all worlds for many photographers. They are amazingly compact and come with the equivalent of a 35mm to 400mm or longer zoom range and most offer the ability to add an accessory flash to cover more picture-taking situations. The zoom range allows for indoor social shots as well as close-ups at the soccer or baseball game. Most models are under $450 and can offer an awful lot for the money.

What to look for:

Resolution	8MP to 14MP covers almost all the available models. Again, for most purposes, 8M-10MP will do just fine and save you some $s over a higher resolution model with the same features.
Lens	35mm – 400mm equivalent zoom is common. Longer zooms are available. Some don’t have threads on the lens barrel to use accessory filters and such. If not, you may have to buy an adapter (usually offered by the same manufacturer that didn't put threads on the lens...hmmmm!)
Flash	Better than the compacts, but still not great. Most models have mounts for accessory flashes.
LCD	Same caveats as the compacts, but some offer tilt and swivel LCDs. Check to see if it is visible in the sunlight. Also check the viewfinder for resolution and clarity since it is likely electronic as well.
Movie mode	640 x 480 and HD 30fps video is available on most models. Some allow zooming while filming, some don’t. Most allow continuous shooting to the capacity of the card.
Waterproof	I don’t currently know of any SuperZoom that is waterproof. Aftermarket housings are available, but not as common since these cameras with their long zoom range aren’t really that well suited for shooting underwater.
Memory	Many use SD memory. MemoryStick is used by Sony. XD is used by Fuji and Olympus. Compact flash is rare if it is to be found at all. Remember to consider if you have other devices that use any of these.
Stabilization	Most models offer stabilization. This can be very important for shooting hand-held at the long end of the zoom range. Same caveat as above with the "anti-blur" technology.
Battery	Many models use AAs. If so, get rechargables and a charger. If it is proprietary, buy an extra or two.
Tripod socket	All models checked had tripod sockets.

Digicams:

A lot of Digicams were purchased by serious amateur photographers to replace the bulk of an SLR and a bag of lenses. For a surprisingly large percentage of photographic situations, they will do just that. These cameras have very high quality lenses and a feature set similar to DSLRs. There are usually a wide range of accessories available and one can build a respectable system around a digicam while still keeping it all in one small bag. Except at high-ISO, picture quality rivals DSLRs in most cases and all will produce excellent images under a wide variety of conditions. These are priced in the $600 - $1000 range. Sub $1,000 DSLRs have all but eliminated this class of camera with only one model released in 2008. The advanced features these once offered are trickling down to the superzoom category with little if any impact on their price.

What to look for:

Resolution	6MP to 10MP. Get what you think you need. 8MP is fine for 12 x 18 prints. The now obsolete Sony R1 used a 10MP chip that is nearly as large as those found in DSLRs and set a new standard for this class of camera.
Lens	Lens – a 28mm – 200mm equivalent zoom is common. Most have matched wide-angle and telephoto adapters available to extend the range. Most zoom using a manual ring for more precise control and offer manual focusing.
Flash	Very good built-in flash. All models have mounts for accessory flashes and some even have connection ports to use studio strobes. The flash systems available for this class include multiple unit capability and other sophisticated setups..
LCD	No clunkers here. Some tilt and swivel. Check the viewfinder for resolution and clarity since they are electronic as well.
Movie mode	640 x 480 30fps video is available on most models. Most have manual zooms that allow zooming while filming. Most allow continuous shooting to the capacity of the card
Waterproof	I don’t currently know of any Digicam that is waterproof, though some are sealed better against dust and splashing than others. There are also aftermarket underwater housings available for some models.
Memory	Almost all use Compact Flash. Some have a second slot for a different type of card. MemoryStick is used by Sony. SD by Canon
Stabilization	Several models offer optical stabilization.
Battery	Most use proprietary, so buy an extra or two. A few models offer accessory grips that hold an additional battery or an adapter with AAs.
Tripod socket	All models checked had tripod sockets.

Micro Four-Thirds

This is a new class of camera that replaces the mirror box of a DSLR with an electronic viewfinder or in some models, just the rear LCD with an optional viewfinder that mounts on top of the body. The attraction of these cameras is their relatively tiny size, DSLR-sized sensor and interchangeable lenses. (Think of them as a Digicam with interchangeable lenses.) The offerings from Panasonic and Olympus are loaded with features and the Panasonic DMC-GH1 will shoot HD video (many caveats on DSLR video, but can be handy). There's not much to be said about these yes as the format is very new and still quite expensive for what you get, but it's a format that could have a lot of impact on the photographer that likes to travel light. I'll expand this segment as the format matures.

DSLRs

If you feel that you have a need for the flexibility and almost infinite options available in an interchangeable-lens digital SLR system, you’re going to have to consider a lot of factors. First of all and ask yourself if you need it, or just want it. If you have tons of disposable income, this question loses importance, obviously. If you are an average wage earner looking to spend your money wisely, you should consider your needs (or wants) carefully. You can pick up an entry-level DSLR with a kit lens for less than a top-of-the-line Digicam. A 10MP entry-level unit with an 18-70mm kit lens is under $500. Then again, a 24MP state-of-the-art pro model with a fast 24-85mm lens will set you back over $9,000!

Remember: it’s a system, not just a camera. Unless you have decided that the image quality of the larger sensor is what you want, but only plan to buy a body and a wide-range zoom, you need to consider whether the system you have chosen has the depth to grow with you. The camera body is usually an important, but fairly small component in a complete system. There are lenses, flash systems, filters, remote triggering devices, tripods and monopods, cases, bags and accessories that fill catalog after catalog. If your aspirations are to travel and bring back great vacation photos, any current brand will do nicely. If you plan to travel to the Himalayas to capture photos of a Yeti with a radio- or motion-controlled, remotely triggered, weather-proof camera, make sure those are available options for your chosen brand. Oh, and good luck with the Yeti!

If you decide to go for it, do a lot of research and take what you read on the internet with a large grain of salt. Brand loyalty, for some reason, has developed a near-religious belief system that precludes quality and functionality existing in any brand other than what that person owns. Maybe admitting that another system is equal or even superior is hard to do when you have a small fortune invested in yours. There are, however, many good sources of un-biased information out there.

Personally, I use Minolta cameras because no other camera is as good or ever will be! Just kidding! I’ve always been happy with the bang for the buck that they offered, their superb lenses and the great innovations. Minolta is no longer in the camera business, but I love both my A2 and 7D and will continue using them for as long as they last. I now own A Sony A700 (which I love to work with!) as well and feel that they are carrying on the Minolta torch admirably. The truth is that none of the top manufacturers makes a bad camera. Often, the features that make one camera different or ‘better” are purely a matter of personal taste. If you can, find a store where you can handle the camera you are interested in or even take a few test pictures with it on your own card.

What to look for:

Resolution	6MP to 24MP. Get what you think you need. 6MP DSLRs produce stunning quality. 10MP is common, some less than $500 The new entry-level Sony Alphas and Samsung cameras use 14MP chips and sell for under $900 with a kit lens.
Crop Factor	35mm film is exposed on an area 24mm tall by 36mm wide. This is referred to as “full-frame” very few models have a full-frame sensor. Canon, Nikon and Sony offer full-frame models that start at about $3k. Most DSLRs use a sensor that is roughly 16mm high by 24mm wide. Since it only covers 66% of the area of full-frame, it is said to have a 1.5x crop factor. This means that the image captured by a 50mm standard lens will capture the field of view of a 75mm lens on a film or full-frame camera.
Lens	Focal length ranges vary from brand to brand, but with offerings from third-party lens makers, you should be able to cover 10mm to 1200mm if you have the need.
Flash	Almost all entry-level to semi-pro models have built-in flash. All models have mounts for accessory flashes and many have connection ports for studio strobes. The flash systems are as sophisticated as you want or can afford.
LCD	No clunkers here. A few tilt and swivel. The viewfinders are optical, but vary significantly in brightness and clarity. The new VGA LCD on the Sony A700 and Nikon D300 is amazingly sharp.
Movie mode	Nope. Different technology. Maybe someday if there is ever a real demand, but for now, these are intended for still pictures only.
Live View	Many new models offer live-view, allowing you to compose directly off of the LCD. This is a useful feature for studio and macro shooting but in the field, the viewfinder still rules. Be aware that autofocus varies from camera to camera in live view and while the models from Sony will focus at normal speed in live-view mode, others can take over a second to lock.
Waterproof	While not waterproof or submersible, some are sealed better against dust and splashing than others. There are also aftermarket underwater housings available for most models.
Memory	Almost all above entry-level use Compact Flash. Some-entry-level models are SD only. Some have a second slot for a different type of card. MemoryStick is used by Sony. SD by Canon
Stabilization	Most models offer optional optically stabilized lenses. A growing number are following Minolta’s lead and integrating the stabilization into the body so any attached lens is stabilized.
Battery	Most use proprietary, so buy an extra or two. Several models offer accessory grips that hold an additional battery or an adapter with AAs.
Tripod socket	All have tripod sockets.

I will state again that if you feel the need or choose to go with a DSLR. Choose carefully and give some real thought to the future. That first $1,000 you spend can turn out to be a drop in the bucket compared to a complete system, so make sure you’re happy with all that the company of your choice offers before going off the deep end buying accessories. Yoy may want to check out my article on adding lenses to a DSLR system HERE.

In Conclusion...

Remember what you read earlier: Cameras are suffering from rapid upgrade cycles right now and it’s easy to be stricken with feature envy when the next best thing comes out a month after you buy yours. Most cameras, like most computers, are obsolete as soon as they hit the stores. I have found that unless you truly need that new super-feature, buying a generation back from the cutting edge can save you a lot of money and give you equipment that has been blessed with the long list of fixes that those brave buyers going before have shed sweat and blood to get released. Why do you think it’s called the cutting edge?

At the risk of being repetitive, I will end this article with what has become my standard advice to anyone buying a camera:

Use it! Take pictures and enjoy them!