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What Camera Should I Get....? |
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...is a question I get asked that a lot. When we’re traveling, on a tour, or even just on a walk at our local regional park, I’m almost never without a camera. I guess that makes me an easy target for someone in search of a clue to the puzzle. My first response is always, “What kind of pictures do you want to take?” This is generally followed by a quizzical look and a “Huh?” Let me explain. The kind of camera you buy very much depends on what you intend to use it for. If you only take snapshots at your children’s birthday parties and other family events, it doesn’t make sense to buy a $2,500 DSLR body and a bag full of lenses. If you want to get into photographing extreme sports, a 10 MP, 4x zoom pocket camera will never fail to disappoint. “Use the right tool”, my father used to say as I was struggling to remove a screw with a pair of pliers. He was smart that way. I have also found that most of the people asking the question have heard all of the buzzwords and seen all of the ad copy related to digital photography, but often are a bit hazy on what it all means. So, read on and I’ll try to lay out some basic guidelines for what type of camera works best for what type of photography and just what the heck all those numbers mean. What kind? Which brand? Which model? There are so many models available today from so many major brands that listing them and categorizing them all would take months and hundreds of pages. By then, most of the models listed and categorized would be obsolete and replaced by new ones. That’s the way the market is set up. With the exception of the DSLR and mirrorless compact systems with myriad interchangeable lenses and accessories, the average camera sold is a one-time sale. The camera maker won’t get any more of your money until you buy a newer, better model or maybe a battery or two. That’s why you see models turned out two or three times a year. I’m leading off with this bit of info because many people are afraid to buy a camera (or electronic items in general) for fear that it will be obsolete soon afterwards. There’s a two-part answer to that; a) It will be obsolete very soon after you buy it. b) Buy the one you want and don’t worry about it. Buy the camera that will do what you want it to and get your money’s worth out of it by using it. It’s only obsolete when it won’t do what you want it to do anymore. Some Basics Before going through the camera types, let’s cover a few of the basic terms used when describing features and functions. Resolution: The scope of this chapter is directed at the non-professional looking for some basic information to help them decide which camera to buy and travel with. For that reason, I’m omitting Pro-oriented ultra-high resolution medium-format cameras and other bits of esoteric imaging hardware that can set you back $10k to $30k very quickly. That still leaves a huge crop of excellent cameras with resolutions ranging from 10 to over 24 megapixels (let’s use MP from now on, ok?) Too many choices! Ask yourself, what are you going to do with the pictures? If you plan to store and view them on a computer, 10MP is already overkill and going for more MP will only eat disk space without increasing image quality in exchange, especially on compact cameras (1-2MB more per photo for a 14 MP vs. a 10 MP file adds up). Will you print them? 4 x 6 prints are cheap and are the most popular size. If you plan on elaborate albums with enlargements, go for a higher resolution. Even an old 2 MP camera will produce very acceptable 4 x 6 prints if it has a good lens. An 8 MP camera will make very nice 8 x10s and a 10-12MP will produce more than acceptable 16 x 20 prints. Beyond that improvements per megapixel will only really count if you crop a lot or print really large. If you think you need 24MP because you're going to show images on a 55" plasma, remember that a full-HD TV screen is 1920 x 1080 pixels, which is only around 2MP. A bigger pixel count isn’t always better! A 10MP digital SLR will outperform a 10MP compact camera. In many cases an 10MP compact with a great lens will outperform another model boasting much higher resolution. There are a lot of technical reasons behind this and since this is not a technical article, just take it as a given. Factors like lens quality, physical sensor size and internal processing make a big difference in the performance of the camera, and the price. (My article Viva la Resolution may provide some more insight into resolution and how to decide what will work for you.) Lens: Without a way to focus light on the sensor (or film) a camera is…well, it’s not much of anything. The lens, therefore, is an important thing to consider when choosing a camera. Compact cameras most often have a 3X-4X zoom range from about 35mm to 105mm equivalent and for most purposes, that does quite well. Some of the newer pocket models have 8X and greater zooms that offer surprising performance from a tiny package. SuperZoom cameras have 10X, 12X, 20X and greater zooms for even more reach. Advanced compacts usually have zoom ranges comparable to compacts, but offer larger sensors and more refined optics with options like manual zooming and focusing. Digital SLRs (DSLRs) are operationally not much different from their film ancestors. They offer interchangeable lenses, so zoom ranges aren’t as important to consider as on a camera with a fixed lens unless it's the only lens you ever plan to buy. The latest entry into camera classes are the Interchangeable Lens Compacts or "ILCs". Some refer to them as Electronic Viewfinder, Interchangeable Lens cameras or "EVILs", but I doubt that the marketing guys will push that very hard. The Olympus EP series, Samsung NX, Panasonic G series and Sony's new NEX cameras that offer DSLR-sized sensors and interchangeable-lens potential in a package far smaller than the smallest DSLR. A word about the Xs in the zoom ratings and what “35mm to 100mm equivalent“ refers to. The Xs refer to the ratio between the shortest focal length of the zoom and the longest; 105/35 = 3. That’s a 3X zoom. The 35mm, 105mm, etc. numbers refer to the magnification of the lens with reference to a common film camera that uses 35mm film. Without going into too much detail, it uses the standard 50mm lens as an approximate equivalent to what the human eye sees. If a lens is shorter than 50mm equivalent, the camera will capture an image wider your eyes see – as if you had backed away from the subject. If it is longer, it will capture a narrower image – as if you had moved closer. You’ll notice that I didn’t mention the other zoom that shows up in the ads, namely “digital” zoom. You will see “12X total zoom! (3X optical, 4X digital)” What this means it that the camera can magnify the image reaching the sensor 3 times using the lens and another 4 times by “cropping”. Say you have a 10MP camera and you use the 12X “total” zoom to take a picture of your kid playing soccer. When you get the 8 x 10 of the game-winning block, it’s fuzzy, grainy, and looks like crap. Why? The way a camera crops for digital zoom is to take the central fourth (4x is our example) of the image and reprocess it to fill the whole frame. What you get is a 2.5MP picture blown up to 10MP. “No such thing as a free lunch” applies here too. It’s just like zooming in on a picture on your computer. The more you zoom, the worse it looks. I’m not saying that you should never use digital zoom, just be aware of how it works and what to expect. Personally, I always use the menu to turn off the digital portion of the zoom and, if I need to crop later, I do it on the computer. That’s my choice, you make your own. The LCD I can’t think of a digital camera that doesn’t have an LCD screen on the back to view the images taken. I’m sure one has been made and even more sure that nobody bought it! That’s the coolest thing about digital! You take a picture and you can see immediately how it came out. The range of sizes of LCD screens keeps growing with every generation of new models. A dim, grainy 1.5in. screen was all that was available in the dinosaur days of digital. Now you can find screens over 3 in. on the backs (nearly the whole back!) of some pretty tiny cameras. Check the LCD out in the sunshine before you make up your mind. There are all types of screens with a wide range of both brightness and resolution. If you are looking at a SuperZoom or an ILC, pay attention to the viewfinder. They aren’t optical, but contain a tiny LCD screen that replaces the prism and mirror of an SLR. They too vary a lot in resolution and viewability. Pan around the store and focus on various objects. Make sure you like what you see. Memory Yikes! Internal memory, Buffer memory, CompactFlash (CF), Secure Digital (SD), Secure Digital High Capacity (SDHC), Secure Digital Extended Capacity (SDXC), Memory Stick (MS),) and xD-Picture Card (xD) are the types you’ll see most often. Be aware of, but disregard a couple of older formats called SmartMedia (SM) and MultiMediaCard (MMC) since they have all but disappeared. Let’s begin with buffer and internal memory. Both are sometimes referred to as internal memory in ad-speak, but they are not necessarily the same. Some compact cameras come with internal memory in addition to the buffer. This memory works like a built-in memory card to store images until a card is inserted (oops!). Some models have 16MB, 32MB or even more internal memory. If you are a truly occasional photographer, you may never need a removable card if you never fill the camera's memory before transferring the pictures. Buffer memory comes in varying sizes too. Larger amounts of buffer memory will allow several pictures to be taken quickly (called “continuous” or “burst” mode) before the camera has to pause to write to the card or internal memory. This may be important if you have kids or like to photograph sports. How long it takes the processor to feed the image to the buffer so another image can be captured is another factor. This is called shot-to-shot speed or framing rate. This can vary from about 1 full-size picture every 2 seconds to 7 pictures every second (10 per second for some pro models) If you want to do action shots of the kid playing soccer, a fast framing rate is a must. If you plan on doing landscapes or still-life shots of flowers, one shot every minute would be enough. Memory cards: These are your “film”. Some cameras come with a card in the box, but they usually have such a tiny capacity that they’re virtually useless. The card types mentioned above range in capacity from 4 megabytes (MB) to 32 gigabytes (GB) and above (for CF and SDXC). Most stores will only carry 2GB to 8GB because of demand, but deals are readily available online. Memory looks like an expensive part of your system, but look at it this way; A 10MP camera set at the highest quality and resolution (which your camera should always be set at !) will produce about a 3.5MB file. That would give you 900 – 1000 pictures on a $20 4GB card. An 12MP camera will produce a 4.5MB – 6MB file enabling you to store 450 – 600 pictures on the same card. Your mileage may vary based (again) on a lot of technical factors, but using average file size for a 10MP compact, a $20 memory card will hold the equivalent of sixteen 24 exposure rolls of film. At $2.50 per roll plus, say, $7.00 to develop and print, you have $152 sunk into the same number of conventional photos. If that already sounds like a deal, just download the photos to your computer and reuse the card…try that with film! If you look at it that way, digital cameras pay for themselves very quickly if you were used to taking a lot of photos. (Use that selling point at your own risk, my wife somehow doesn’t, or won’t, see it as clearly as I do!) Memory speed: Bombarded with still more Xs…40X, 80X, 133X, even 600X! An “X” in this case refers to multiples of the playback speed standardized for the CD-ROM which is 150 kilobits per second. That means that a 40X card can be read at a maximum of 60 megabits per second. Note the “bits”. Files are measured in 8-bit bytes so a 40X card can, theoretically, transfer about two 3mb files in a second. Again, mileage varies. Also keep in mind that a camera may not be able to write at such high speeds due to limitations of the processor and more techie factors. If the difference in price is fairly small, get the fast one. Remember, though, the 80X card may not always provide better performance than the 40X card in your camera. Note: The Xs aren't completely useless if your camera can't use them. If you have a fast card reader, you can really see the difference in the faster card while downloading images to your computer! Batteries: Cameras use power. This has been true since someone decided to put the exposure meter inside the camera. That took a teensy amount of power and a $3 battery would last for years. Digital cameras use a lot of power. You are holding a tiny digital device with the computing power of a 1960s mainframe! Several models can use AA batteries, but most use proprietary lithium-ion power packs. These usually cost from $30 - $60 each but can be recharged hundreds of times and can last for 3-4 years with normal usage. You will need at least one extra battery if you plan on using the camera much. Trust me! If you think that nothing could be worse than that once-in-a-lifetime shot getting away because you left the camera at home, try missing it because a dead battery has transformed your camera into an expensive paperweight. Rule-of-thumb; stick with buying the camera maker’s battery unless the camera model is popular enough that you can buy a major-brand replacement. If the camera uses AAs, get rechargables and a charger. The initial outlay is more, but modern NIMH (Nickel Metal Hydride) batteries and Lithium hybrids like Sanyo Eneloops hold a lot more charge than alkalines and can be charged 500-1000 times. The hybrids are a good choice if you don't use the camera every day since they don't self-discharge as rapidly as NIMHs. A NIMH battery left for a month will be nearly dead but a hybrid can retain its charge for up to a year. Always something new...and it's generally good news for camera owners! Lithium-ion battery packs will also self-discharge between charges if not used, but do so very slowly and will hold a charge for several months to a year. Keep in mind that the batteries left in your camera or bag may need to be charged before an outing. Some of the better AA chargers will charge the batteries quickly and then switch to a light “trickle” charge. That lets you leave a set in the charger so they are always ready to go. Lithium battery packs and chargers vary and can take anywhere from an hour up to five or more hours for a full charge so plan ahead. Camera Types Compact Cameras: Compact Point & Shoot cameras are the Instamatics of the digital age. They’re mostly affordable, take good photos and are easy to carry around. The current crop ranges from a $78 Kodak to an $850 Leica. (I’m sure there’s a cheaper Sri Lankan knock-off or a leather-bound Man Ray commemorative edition outside that range, so hold off on the e-mails.) These cameras are made to take the guesswork out of taking pictures. They provide the average user the ability to take good pictures under a remarkably wide range of conditions without doing much more than pointing the camera and shooting the picture….hence the name. Some of the higher-end models are really remarkable and can produce photos that would be welcome in any gallery. A lot of people and many “pros” carry a compact camera with them at all times. You never know when a photo-op will present itself and whatever the camera used, the picture you took is better than the one you didn’t. These cameras are best for everyday use, family gatherings and casual travel photography. They can produce very good results for a relatively small investment in both money and in learning to use them. Many now offer surprisingly capable video modes that allow you to skip the separate camcorder for casual video. Great for a first digital (or any type) camera. What to look for:
SuperZooms: SuperZoom is a class of camera meant to be the best of all worlds for many photographers. They are amazingly compact and come with the equivalent of a 35mm to 400mm or longer zoom range and most offer the ability to add an accessory flash to cover more picture-taking situations. The zoom range allows for indoor social shots as well as close-ups at the soccer or baseball game. Most models are under $500 and can offer an awful lot for the money. What to look for:
Digicams: A lot of Digicams were purchased by serious amateur photographers to replace the bulk of an SLR and a bag of lenses. For a surprisingly large percentage of photographic situations, they will do just that. These cameras have very high quality lenses and a feature set similar to entry-level DSLRs. There are usually a wide range of accessories available and one can build a small, but respectable system around a digicam while still keeping it all in one small bag. Except at high-ISO, picture quality rivals DSLRs in most cases and all will produce excellent images under a wide variety of conditions. These were originally priced in the $600 - $1000 range. Sub $1,000 DSLRs and interchangeable-lens compacts have eliminated this class of camera with only one model released since 2008. The advanced features these once offered trickled down to the superzoom category with little if any impact on their price. I am only including them here because used ones are available and a good used one might be a n option for a tight budget or a teen's first "serious" camera. What to look for:
Micro Four-Thirds Interchangeable Lens Compacts ILC. This is a new class of camera that replaces the mirror box of a DSLR with an electronic viewfinder or in some models, just the rear LCD with an optional viewfinder that mounts on top of the body. The attraction of these cameras is their relatively tiny size, DSLR-sized sensor and interchangeable lenses. (Think of them as a high-end Digicam with interchangeable lenses.) The offerings from Panasonic and Olympus use a Four-Thirds sensor and share the same Micro Four-Thirds lens mount. Since I first mentioned these in this article, much has happened. Sony and Samsung have released their entries with 50% larger APS-C sensors. The competition has driven the price of a camera and lens down from over $1000 to $600-$700 to start. There's not much to be said about the performance of these that can't be said about an entry-level DSLR except that they are truly small. Despite having an APS-C DSLR sensor inside, the Sony NEX bodies are actually smaller than some of the long-zoom compact point & shoot cameras. This format is already having a lot of impact on the market that includes the photographer that likes to travel light. What to look for:
DSLRs If you feel that you have a need for the flexibility and almost infinite options available in an interchangeable-lens digital SLR system, you’re going to have to consider a lot of factors. First of all and ask yourself if you need it, or just want it. If you have tons of disposable income, this question loses importance, obviously. If you are an average wage earner looking to spend your money wisely, you should consider your needs (or wants) carefully. You can pick up an entry-level DSLR with an 18-70mm kit lens is under $500. Then again, a 24MP state-of-the-art pro model with a fast 24-85mm lens will set you back over $9,000! Remember: it’s a system, not just a camera. Unless you have decided that the image quality of the larger sensor is what you want, but only plan to buy a body and a wide-range zoom, you need to consider whether the system you have chosen has the depth to grow with you. The camera body is usually an important, but fairly small component in a complete system. There are lenses, flash systems, filters, remote triggering devices, tripods and monopods, cases, bags and accessories that fill catalog after catalog. If your aspirations are to travel and bring back great vacation photos, any current brand will do nicely. If you plan to travel to the Himalayas to capture photos of a Yeti with a radio- or motion-controlled, remotely triggered, weather-proof camera, make sure those are available options for your chosen brand. Oh, and good luck with the Yeti! If you decide to go for it, do a lot of research and take what you read on the internet with a large grain of salt. Brand loyalty, for some reason, has developed a near-religious belief system that precludes quality and functionality existing in any brand other than what that person owns. Maybe admitting that another system is equal or even superior is hard to do when you have a small fortune invested in yours. If you hear the words "no serious photographer would buy anything but (fill in the brand)", "You only want to shoot RAW, 'cause that's what the pros use" or "if it won't shoot 24p video, the movies will look awful", thank the source of that advice and go about your business. There are, however, many good sources of un-biased information out there. Me, for instance! ;-) Personally, I have used Minolta cameras for most of my 40 years of shooting because no other camera is as good or ever will be! Just kidding! I’ve always been happy with the bang for the buck that they offered, their superb lenses and the great innovations. Minolta, however was better at inventing than marketing and is no longer in the camera business. Still, I love both my A2 and 7D and will continue using them for as long as they last. Minolta's technology was absorbed by Sony and I now own A Sony A700 (which I love to work with!) and feel that they are carrying on the Minolta torch admirably. The truth is that none of the top manufacturers makes a bad camera. More often than not, the features that make one camera different or ‘better” are purely a matter of personal taste. If you can, find a store where you can handle the camera you are interested in or even take a few test pictures with it on your own card. Don't worry too much about the brand. The color of your logo jacket will have zero effect on you competence as a photographer. It is also advisable to ignore the solicitations of the typical department store camera "specialist". Since you have read to this point in the article, you probably have more detailed knowledge about digital cameras than the average retail clerk. I really don't mean to disparage all camera department employees as some are pretty knowledgeable, but their recommendations are often fueled by spiffs (small bonuses offered for every camera of a promoted brand sold) than by your best interests. What to look for:
I will state again that if you feel the need or choose to go with a DSLR. Choose carefully and give some real thought to the future. That first $1,000 you spend can turn out to be a drop in the bucket compared to a complete system, so make sure you’re happy with all that the company of your choice offers before going off the deep end buying accessories. You may want to check out my article on adding lenses to a DSLR system HERE. In Conclusion... Remember what you read earlier: Cameras are suffering from rapid upgrade cycles right now and it’s easy to be stricken with feature envy when the celebrity de jour shows up on TV waving something shiny a month after you buy yours. Most cameras, like most computers, are obsolete as soon as they hit the stores. I have found that unless you truly need that new super-feature, buying a generation back from the cutting edge can save you a lot of money and give you equipment that has been blessed with the long list of fixes that those brave buyers going before have shed sweat and blood to get released. Why do you think it’s called the cutting edge? At the risk of being repetitive, I will end this article with what has become my standard advice to anyone buying a camera: Use it! Take pictures and enjoy them!
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